Takarazuka Theater - Razzle Dazzle

Yesterday, I went to the Takarazuka Theater near Osaka with my friend, Masae. Takarazuka Theater has been around since 1914 and is an all female theater.


We saw the "Snow" troupe perform a classic and well-known musical/play called The Rose of Versailles. It's based on a manga (comic) book about a noble family in France during the time of Marie Antoinette. The noble family has six daughters, but for generations they always had a boy who was a soldier in the in family. So the family decides to raise the youngest girl as a boy. They call her "Oscar-san". Everyone really likes Oscar-san. At some point during the play a female and male friend both profess their love for Oscar. Oscar ends up telling her male friend that she loves him too, so they have one night together before they go off to war. They both die during the war and end up in heaven to spend eternity together. The storyline was a bit confusing considering it's being played by an all female troupe

Here's a picture from the poster. I think "Oscar-san" looks like Michael Jackson.

The performance was fantastic and over the top. I felt like I was in Las Vegas. There was so much glitter, sequins and razzle dazzle. There was a huge staircase that the performers could go up and down on, a huge moving stage that spun and had areas where the actresses could be lowered below the stage or raised to stage level, lots of fog from the fog machine, a flying horse that the lead actress sat on and flew around the stage, and as part of the finale a line dance with the women doing synchronized high kicks. It was really glizty and fun! I wish I could’ve taken pictures.

The Takarazuka has an air of mystery surrounding them because their training is so rigorous and they are not allowed to socialize with men, especially the male actresses. There is a Takarazuka Theater School where 40-50 high school students are accepted out of the 1000 that apply each year. The school is very strict and has a rigorous schedule for the students with singing, dancing, acting and more.

During the student's second year, they must decide whether they will play male or female roles only. The male roles are very popular among fans and are considered the top stars of the show. Once the students graduate from the school they are placed in one of five performing troupes called, "Snow", "Star", "Moon", "Flower" and "Cosmos". Each troupe perform 2-3 times each year in Osaka and Tokyo and sometimes go abroad. There's also "Special Course" for retired Takarazukinnes that want to continue to perform. The performers usually retire in their 30s.

It seems that the male actresses are suppose to keep their male image in tact on and off the stage. The plays/musicals are usually very romantic and present a very idealized version of men. So, many Japanese women love the male actresses. I don't think it's sexual, I think it's more about the persona of a heroic man that will sweep you off your feet in a kind of Disney romantic non-sexual way. The fans are young women 15-25 years old. I think at least 95% of the audience was female. There are many fan clubs as well. As we were leaving the theater there were a group of women waiting by the theater exit for the actresses. It’s all very bizarre and interesting.

For more information here’s a good website: http://takarazuka.sugarandspicecosplay.com/

Valentines and Ceramics

Valentine's day is a little different in Japan. About 1 month ago a huge display of chocolates was set up in the department store by my school. Maybe the size of my front yard in Arizona. As I write this post, I'm realizing I should've taken pictures of the display. I went the day after Valentine's Day and it was already packed up and gone. Anyway, Valentine's Day is a time for women to give men chocolates, not only your lover/partner/husband/boyfriend, but also your male co-workers, friends, family and acquaintances. March 14th is "White Day" where men give women something sweet and white usually some sort of marshmallow treat.

That evening, I went to the ceramics studio, where Julian works, to hang out. I was happy to sit in the little studio next to the wood burning stove. The studio smells like cedar, a lovely deep woody smell. We hung out with our friend, studio owner and artist Miki and her daughter for a little bit as well. As Julian was throwing some work, I suddenly felt like playing with clay. It's been a long time since I've done any pottery. I've been doing pottery on and off since high school for almost 20 years and I still can't throw worth a dam, but I sure do love it. So Julian threw a couple pot shapes that I could convert into dolls. I was so inspired by the Komuso monks, which I mentioned in my last blog post, that I made a Komuso monk doll and the other one a robot. Julian helped me with the dolls. The pleasure of creating together and being in such a quiet, peaceful, warm and beautiful environment was the best Valentine's ever. Julian said this and I have to agree, that we are reminded continually that It's really the simple and small things in life that matter. I HEART JULIAN AND JAPAN! As my students say with their hands forming a heart shape "lobu lobu"!

Oni Matsuri

Last Saturday was so fantastic! We went to Mount Masui, which is located next to my junior high school. In the fall, I climbed Masui with some of the English teachers and had a picnic. I posted about it on October 13th. We were invited by one of Julian's studio mates to go to Mt. Masui for the Oni Festival. Oni is a demon (the same demon that we had the bean throwing party for a couple of weeks ago). This is a really long post, but so much happened that day and it was so great!

Anyway, Julian's studio mate, Momoyo and her daughter and husband picked us up and took us up the mountain by car. Zuiganji Temple is located on the mountain and it's approximately 500 years old. It's a beautiful old Buddhist temple. It's all wood and there are a few buildings, and graveyards as well. There's also a modern building where I think the monks reside and meditate.

As soon as we arrived, Momoyo bought us a lunch of udon noodle soup. The food vendors were calling out to us in English. We were the only foreigners there so it seemed like people were surprised and interested to see us. We were introduced to several people from the community that Momoyo knew. It was a village gathering up in the mountains. Even though the mountain is in Himeji, I felt far away from city life. I know there are similar gatherings in America such as block parties and small town gatherings, but when you are an outsider it's really special and wonderful to feel welcomed to a community gathering. I think people were excited to show us their festival and I was super excited to be there.

It was also nice to meet some of the parents of children that I teach. As the Masui Jr. High School English teacher, I think it's good for me to join in on community festivities, which I love to do anyway! Soon, I will be going to the local elementary schools as well, so I'll get to know more of the families that live in this community. I'm so happy I'm at this school. I didn't have these kinds of opportunities at my last school, so I felt disconnected from the community.

We slurped our noodles, as we sat near the vendors. Julian made eye contact with one of the vendors and they smiled at each other. So, he poured Julian a huge cup of shochu and gave it to him. Shochuu is a really strong type of sake with maybe 20% or more alcohol. In Japan, sharing a drink amongst men is very important, but that's an entirely different subject.

I'm still trying to master the art of slurping noodles

A tall cup of shochu


As we were eating our noodles, a group of people lined up along the front area of the temple and started playing the shakuhachi, a type of bamboo flute that's held like a clarinet. The group of shakuhachi players were wearing basket woven hats called the tengai. The hat covers the players faces and there's only a small opening for the players to see. It was so interesting and unusual and curious. I looked up what it meant. Here's a website if you are interestested about the Komuso monks: http://www.shakuhachi.com/Q-Origins&History.html

Komuso Monks


As we were watching the shakuhachi players a guy asked us if he could take our picture, so we posed near the temple and suddenly there were 5 or more people taking our photograph. I turned beat red and didn't know what to do. Luckily I was holding my camera, and Julian suggested I take a picture of the photographers. So, here's a picture of our paparazzi. It cracks me up.

Paparazzi


We went into the temple for the oni dance and were instructed by one of the volunteers to go around to the side entrance. Julian had met the volunteer in the ceramics studio last week. He'’s really interested in making ceramics with Julian and he was really happy we were at the festival. He ushered us through the side door and suddenly we were in the inner area of the temple that people are not usually allowed to enter. Usually, we are standing at the rail looking at the monks and statues from afar. There were other lucky spectators in that area as well and we all sat together on pillows. I was maybe 3 feet away from the altar.

Good Seats

Alter


The shakuhachi players came inside the temple and took their hats off and played. I don'’t know why, but I thought they were women and was surprised to see that they were all men. Next, the monks entered the temple and sat maybe three feet away from me. They started praying and chanting. They must've chanted for 30 or more minutes. It was mesmerizing! I wish I could understand what they were chanting. After the chanting was done, the oni dance began.

Shakuhachi Players


One oni circled three times throughout the temple while holding a torch. He had a face mask that he was holding and he was also chanting something. Next a group of children dressed in red and blue with oni masks walked around the temple 3 times chanting and stomping. Finally the big onis, one in blue and one in red came out and danced with torches. I was a little nervous because we were in a 500 year old wooden temple with fabric drapes hanging near where the torches were moving. I kept thinking this would never happen in America! I love it here! They also circled three times. They continued to all circle two more times. It was so beautiful and interesting and amazing and I started to cry because I felt so honored and happy that I could be apart of this ceremony and everyone was so kind.

First Oni

Demon Children

Red and Blue Demons




When we left the temple, the oni children lined up and on the deck/porch of the temple and threw mame (beans), mochi (pounded rice balls) and candy to us.


There was a pyre of leaves and wood decorated with paper outside of the temple. After the oni dance, everyone gathered around the pyre. There were monks dressed in unusual costumes. A monk started blowing into a conque shell. One monk with a bow and arrow walked around the pyre and started shooting decorative arrows lightly out to the crowd for the crowd to catch. Arrows are a sign of good luck into the next year. After the arrows were shot out, some monks started to pray and walk around the pyre. The crowd suddenly became antsy and they were starting to walk towards the pyre, but the monks were holding them off for a few more moments, but when the word went out that they could come forward, there was a crowd of people that rushed forward to grab the decorations from the pyre. I believe they are for good luck.

Pyre and a good shot of Zuigangi Temple in the background

Good Luck Arrows

Mad rush for the decorations


Once the decorations had been removed and the crowd moved back, the monks started to prepare for the lighting of the pyre. It was lit from below, so it started off as a slow and small burn with some smoke. Soon it became very smoky with smoldering wood and finally we could see the fire. We must'’ve been 20-30 feet away from the pyre but you could feel it'’s heat. It was very hot and very smoky.


More Chanting


There were Himeji Fire Trucks and firemen present. They helped with the pyre and eventually knocked it down. One firemen was wearing a heat proof happi coat (short kimono coat). The monks and firemen, pulled big smoldering logs out of the fire. We were then told that people would do a "“fire walk"”. People would walk barefoot on these smoldering logs, that it would bring good health for one year. People kept teasing us and asking us if we wanted to do the fire walk, but we said no way. When the fire walk started we saw lots of people lined up to walk on the logs, including young children and old people. We then realized that it really wasn'’t that hot, that they had cooled it down. So, Julian, me and Momoyo's daughter, Aii, walked barefoot across the logs. It was awesome. Because we walked across the logs, we will have good health for the year! I wonder if in the old days, people actually walked across these logs while they were burning hot. One of the monks gave me a decoration from the tree.

Himeji Fire Truck

Himeji Firemen "Have a Brighter Tomorrow"

Fire Walk Set Up

Fire Walk


Yay, more good luck!


I really enjoyed this event. As usual, I didn'’t understand exactly what was happening or why it was happening, but I really enjoyed it. Julian and I were talking about how often times when we get invited to something, we don'’t really know what to expect until we get there. It's a surprise each and every time.

After the event, we stopped at Momoyo'’s house for some coffee and cake. She lives right at the base of Masui Mountain. It was such a pleasure to hang out with her and her family. I'’m so lucky!

Momoyo, Aii and me

Traveling to Japan

Julian has so many good ideas! He suggested the "Traveling to Japan" section that I just added on my blog. It's on the sidebar to your right below "archives". I've put various weblinks for travel, guides, accommodations and tours. We thought it might be helpful for those of you considering visiting. Let me know if you find other links that would be useful.

What's the weather like today?

What's the weather like today? I think I'll go outside and check the sign.

Welcome Party

Last night was our welcome party hosted by the Himeji Board of Education. I've been here 5 months and you may be wondering why our welcome party is so late, but it's because the new Australian ALTs (Assistant Language Teachers) just arrived last month. The Australian teacher's contract is from January-December, which mirrors the Australian school year and the American teacher's contract is from September-August.

We were told about 2-3 weeks before the party that we would need to perform and that a Japanese administrator was going to perform for us as well. Since most of us are not good at singing and had no desire to get up in front of the group, the ALTs decided to select two representatives, one American and one Australian to sing. Alexis from America and Rosalina from Australia were our singing leaders! Yay for people who like to perform! Sometimes I wish I could play the guitar and sing because I think it would come in handy for the classroom.

The party was in the exact same place and room as the Dentist's Party that I previously posted about on December 30th. There were mostly principals and some administrators at the party. When we walked in a few minutes late, everyone was already there. Chairs were lining the wall and it was primarily men sitting in them. The ALTs were on one side of the room and the principals and administrators were on the other side of the room. It felt a bit awkward, kind of like a Jr. High School dance with all of the kids lining the walls because they are too shy to mingle or dance.

I forgot to take pictures until the middle of the evening, so I don't have that many.

Principals & Administrators (Wall Flowers)



The superintendent welcomed us while our boss, Iizuka-sensei did all of the translating. We were told to split up and mix together. There was a long buffet table in the middle of the room and about 6 round tables without chairs spread across the room. So, we all went to different tables and stood next to the various principals/administrators. I stood with Mr. Anno, my principal from Masui Jr. High School. He’s so kind! There were some more speeches and we toasted each other with beer and later saki. We made small talk and ate some really good food, sushi, nabe, fried chicken and fish, etc. It was really nice.

Julian and John

Mac, Me and Julian 2


The ALTs had to introduce themselves to the audience. Then Alexis and Rosalina each played the guitar and sang some songs. John Roy tried to recite a poem by an Australian poet, but realized in the middle that it was too difficult to translate and suddenly he became shy and apologized and got off stage. It was a good effort. Next, it was the Japanese staff's turn to perform, so one of the administrators played the piano while he sang opera at the same time. He played a couple of songs and then he asked that each group, the Australians, Americans and Japanese to sing their respective national anthems. And for our final song, the entire group sang the famous Japanese song called "Sakura" together. I think that was my favorite part of the night. It was really sweet. Welcome to Japan!
Rosalina Strumming and Singing

Opera Singer and Piano Player

Australian National Anthem

American National Anthem

Puddin'

Yesterday, I went to my Japanese tutor. My Japanese is slowly progressing. Afterwards I met up with my friend, Masae. She took me to a pudding store for some coffee and a puddin' snack. It's a store solely dedicated to pudding. It was so cute and the pudding was delicious. I had flan and Masae had raspberry pudding. The store is so cute - so kawaiiiiii!!!! Oh how I love Japan!

Bean Throwing Party

Today is Setsuban (the beginning of Spring based on the lunar calendar, but it's still really cold here). On this day we are suppose to throw beans outside of our house to get rid of evil demons, and invite good spirits into our home. I bought the beans at the store and got a free mask with the evil demon dude on it, the evil demon is called Oni. We then eat the same number of beans as our age. Then we have to face in a special direction and eat maki or sushi rolls quietly (no talking) and eat the maki roll all at once while we wish for good things. The direction changes each year, but this year we must face southeast (not sure why). I made homemade maki rolls this afternoon with my friend Masae. We went to Trish and Mark's apartment for dinner. We preformed Setsuban at their house, but I figure it's good for our entire residence. Out you demons!
Beans

Out demon!


By the way, I love my new school! I've been there exactly a month. I was nervous the first couple of weeks, but it's a joy to work there. I had heard that my new junior high school is a rough school and that it was "getting better." My last school was really strict in regards to dress code and general behavior. This school is less strict, but I find that the students are friendlier and take the time to talk to me. I think the students from my last school wanted to talk to me, but they were perhaps nervous or busy. I'm not really sure. Anyway, I'm much busier at this school. I'm teaching around the same number of classes and I meet with my students at lunch and after school to practice English. It's really awesome!

The other thing that happened today is an 8th grader gave me a gift from Kyoto. He was really shy about it and kept running away until his friend finally made him give it to me. I asked if I could open it now and he insisted NO, NO, NO, OPEN IT IN THE TEACHER'S ROOM. So I peaked and it was a little sheet of stickers. The stickers are shaped like little piles of poo or doo doo or shit that are gold and some have happy faces and some have fortunes on them and it just cracked me up! I couldn't stop laughing. Not sure why he gave me these stickers, but I'm happy to receive any gifts from students plus it was so thoughtful.